Archive for June, 2009

Upstairs at Louie’s

Friday, June 26th, 2009

louies_wholeTucked between Dog Beach and Jimmy Buffett’s former Key West home — back when he was a mere wandering minstrel — is Louie’s Backyard, long a favorite restaurant of tourists and locals alike. The food is good, but it’s the view and the ambience that steal the show here. The “backyard” is actually a multi-tier deck, the lower portion built right out over the water, providing a spectacular panorama of the Atlantic Ocean. That’s where you will find the bar – known as the Afterdeck — and there isn’t a more relaxing place to be at the end of the day. There is something magical about salt-scented breezes, the gentle music of waves lapping at the shoreline, and silhouetted sailboats on the horizon, out for their own sunset celebration.

Recently, Louie’s added a tapas, wine, and martini bar on the second floor, called “Upstairs at Louie’s”. That’s where we met friends a couple of weekends ago, to sample the menu, share some good times, and generally check things out. Featuring that drop-dead gorgeous view, the atmosphere is welcoming and relaxing, the small-plate menu imaginative, and the prices much more recession-friendly than the more formal restaurant downstairs.

And what a nice surprise to find that local wine connoisseur, Nicole Garcia, was our server … no, make that hostess. Her attentive demeanor, expert recommendations, and genuine concern for our having a good time made the evening one of the most enjoyable in recent memory. img_5314-2

If you aren’t sure what you want, she will let you sample wines until you find the perfect one – not in a random way, but listening closely to your feedback. Uncanny how she does that, each offering improving on the last. Like fine-tuning. And that is exactly the process by which she introduced me to possibly the best medium-priced red wine I have ever had. At $9 a glass ($36 a bottle), I felt it was an excellent value … restaurant prices considered, of course.

Now, I’m no wine snob. I’ve even been known to consume my share of those that don’t come in bottles (my wine-drinking sisters and I call it Box-O-Wine). But I’ve always been a particular fan of the good Italian reds. Following her lead, I discovered Briccotondo Barbera, from the Piedmont region.  Nicole described it as a light-bodied wine similar to pinot noir.  It was, indeed, lighter than the sangiovese-based Tuscans that so often come to mind when thinking “Italian red wine”, but I found it to be a bit more full-bodied than a pinot noir … in my estimation, a delightful bridge of the two … and a perfect match for my palate that evening. Gorgeous ruby-red in the glass, and so mellow that I drank way more than I should have.

Nicole came to Key West in 2000 and worked for Louie’s for almost two years. After a short stint in Spain, she returned to Key West and managed the White Tarpon, a package store and wine bar over at the Historic Seaport (we locals call it “the bight”), where she became interested in wine. Through self-study and courses, she has become quite knowledgeable, though she will tell you, in her modest, self-effacing way, that she is still learning every day.

She earned her Culinary Arts degree from Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago, a certificate from the Mastery of Wines from Florida International University, and has completed the introductory course from the Court of Master Sommeliers. She has even produced her own series of wine-tastings at various venues about town, here in Key West.

Last summer, Louie’s lured her back, to open Upstairs at Louie’s.  Here she has found that she can marry her experience and knowledge of food and wine, while meeting people who share her passion, and – in her own words — the view isn’t bad either.img_50721-1

When you get a chance, go see her. Foot of Vernon Street, at Dog Beach. Upstairs. And try the Briccotondo Barbera.

 

Savannah-Natchez-Key West

Tuesday, June 23rd, 2009

The Tropical Inn is blessed by a loyal following of repeat guests, who visit regularly. So I was thinking it might be interesting for our blog followers to get to know a few of them.

Seems like the creative types are especially drawn to us. Take this weekend’s visitors, Michael Norell and Douglas Scharmann, from Natchez. This was either their fourth or fifth stay with us (we’ve lost count).20090621-img_03351

This duo is one of our favorites. We have mutual acquaintances that are vestiges of our former lives in Savannah that have, over the years, become prominent in certain New Orleans/Natchez circles, as well. The two locales share a certain supercilious flamboyance. Philosophical discussions about the common thread aside, the conclusion seems to be, quite simply, “decadence becomes them” … “debutantes and dilitantes”, if you get my drift … sounds like a great Fantasy Fest theme, don’t you think?

Writers such as Ernest Hemingway, Tennessee Williams, Elizabeth Bishop, and Shel Silverstein have all left their indelible mark on our tiny island home.  Similarly, aspiring and accomplished literati have been lured by the creative inspiration to be found in Natchez and Savannah. In fact, there is a long-established literary connection between the two cities. The Southern Literary Trail describes itself as “a collaboration of 18 Southern towns from Natchez to Savannah, Ga., celebrating renowned writers and playwrights of the 20th century who were inspired by their communities.”

During that time, the Deep South produced a wealth of writers, poets, and playwrights that gave rise to the Southern Gothic genre. Mississippi produced some authors that are true giants in that regard, such as William Faulkner and Eudora Welty. Louisiana gave us Truman Capote. Tennessee Williams was born in Mississippi and lived as an adult in New Orleans, as well as Key West, producing some of his most important works in both places. And Georgia lays claim to its own icons of the genre, such as Flannery O’Connor (born in Savannah, her home there is now a museum) and the canonic Erskine Caldwell.

Southern writers are a breed apart. They give us insight into a culture defined by historic architecture, distinctive regional food, contentious religious practices, steamy passion, nihilistic violence, and a legacy of human exploitation. Traditions sometimes charming, but just as often scurrilous, are fiercely held relics born of pedigreed lineages, family secrets, an obsession with “keeping up appearances”, and an inability to let go and move forward. The brew is steeped in an amalgam of low-lying geography and oppressive summers. From this ferment has sprung some of the most imaginatively descriptive prose and insightful character studies ever to emerge from a region.

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In recent years, author John Berendt has been particularly clever in parlaying the characteristics of Southern Gothic into a contemporary setting. Not a Son of the South, but an astute observer of life there, he possesses a keen ability to extrapolate the essence of “place” and translate it into his writing.

Those who hold the Deep South lifestyle sacred have an amazing proclivity to dismiss even the most aberrant of social behaviors within its ranks as merely eccentric. Berendt became immersed in the culture of Savannah, where that phenomenon is alive and well. His “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil” is a chronicle of the Hostess City’s unique inhabitants, unconventional lifestyles, and absurd pretentiousness. It was a huge success, landing him a Pulitzer Prize nomination.

Since the publication of “Midnight”, Berendt has written a lesser (IMHO) manuscript which attempted to reveal the same sort of insight into Venice society. Now, Michael and Douglas tell us that he has recently been very prominent on the New Orleans/Natchez circuit, and rumors are flying that the Crescent City is his next target.

Hmmm … now, how did I get off on that tangent? Just a bit of “6 degrees of separation” insight into some shared history that has contributed to Michael and Douglas’ growing from “guests” into “friends”, I guess. Anyway, suffice it to say that whenever they are in the house, there are sure to be flowing libations and irreverently devilish gossip, as we catch up on the time that has passed between us since their last visit!

Douglas owns Castle Research (www.castleresearch.com), a script research company that specializes in movie & TV productions. With at least a dozen TV series and assorted movies, produced by ABCDisney, CBSParamount, and others, to his credit, his job is to make sure that fictitious names of businesses, people, and products remain just that – fictitious, and that time and place issues are accurate. Right now, he is working on “Numbers”, a TV series akin to “CSI”. Mining primarily the internet for his documentation, he provides the background research that protects the studios from accidental lawsuits. He even works with film-making art departments to assure that details like street names and scenes are authentic.

But, like so many of us relying on our “day jobs” to pay the bills, what Douglas really wants to do is write (surprise!). He is presently working on a novel about a Hollywood private detective. He’s keeping the details secret, so I guess we’ll just have to wait for the book to come out to learn the rest of the story.

Douglas’ partner, Michael, is the director of the classical music division of MMO Music Group (New York). But his professional designation as independent music producer is overshadowed by his greater interests: tropical horticulture and landscape architecture. His botanical knowledge is positively encyclopedic! There is literally not a specimen unknown to Michael … and no trip to Key West is complete without a stopover on the mainland at Fairchild Gardens, en route.

Describing himself as “leading a fragmented life”, Michael’s talents extend far beyond the musical. He keeps saltwater aquariums filled with exotic specimens. He backs up Douglas in the report production aspects of his work. And he tends an extensive greenhouse and garden — his consuming passion — at their home. On the return leg of their weekend trip to Key West, the pair stopped over in Florida City to claim a rare specimen of banana tree for which Michael has been on the waiting list for the past year and a half … an adoptive father awaiting the parent tree to “pup”.

In light of their individual careers based on opposite coasts — New York City and Los Angeles — the natural question is, “”Why Natchez?” to call home? Better yet, “how”?

The magic of the internet and increasingly sophisticated electronic gadgets make it possible for them to live anywhere they choose. Douglas, for instance – with his website and his LA phone number forwarded to his home in Natchez — says that he only has to appear on the west coast about once every six weeks. Big Apple trips are even more infrequent for Michael.

That given, they elaborate a bit about life in Natchez. They explain: “Living in Natchez is the easiest way to be an expat, still be in the US, and to literally step back in time.” Expanding on that, they say (I love this one), “You ride a tornado in and click your heels three times to get out“ … “like stepping into a novel … living on a movie backlot filled with interesting characters” … where – to ice the cake — everything is remarkably affordable .

Except for that last part about “affordable” … kinda sounds like Key West, doesn’t it?

Key West photos!

Saturday, June 20th, 2009

Our friend, Jim, who is a Recovering Innkeeper, has come out of “retirement”. We knew it was just a matter of time.2009-05-23-11a No one here in Key West ever really retires; they just go on to the next creative adventure.  Sometimes the inspiration needs a bit longer than other times to incubate, but the result is unavoidable.

After stockpiling photos chronicling his 10 years in Key West, and having taken a brief hiatus after passing the Ocean Breeze Inn on to its present owner, he has unveiled his next venture (and secret passion): Jim’s Island Photography!  All the views you see in this blog entry are his.

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Jim’s new biz is the perfect showcase for his talent of capturing the essence of life here on our little island home, adrift closer to Cuba than “America”.  He speaks about his work: “What I would say about the pictures, I guess my reason for taking them revolves around the fact that our lives in Key West are spent outdoors. More so than anywhere else that we have ever lived. That through these photographs of the colors, sights and scenes of Key West I hope that the viewers can get a sense of how we feel about this island, the island lifestyle and why everyone gets so attached to it.”

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One of our guests once described Key West as “seductive”. We think Jim’s photos show you why. We here who call Key West home have certainly been just that. Seduced.  And most of us wish we had given in to that siren’s song even sooner than we did.

New pictures are being added to Jim’s website daily. He can make the photos any size you like, and even print them on canvas, so they look like a painting — and they are quite affordable.

So spray on some heavy seduction repellent and have a look at his new website:  http://www.jimsislandphotography.com.  We think you’ll like what you see there!

A romantic tropical escape!

Wednesday, June 17th, 2009

thumbnailaspxIn our ten years of shepherding The Tropical Inn from an OK-but-not-much-else-going-for-it-except-its-location property to the unique boutique inn it is today, we have developed quite a nice reputation as being the place to stay if your Key West getaway is of the romantic nature. So lately we have been getting an unusual number of requests for “elopement packages”. OK, that tells us there’s a demand we need to fill. So, with a little help from my friend, Eileen, over at Weddings To Go,  I put something together that we think is a winner, at a great price. It’s on the Key West Wedding page of our website now. Have a look.

This led me to thinking.  Even though we almost always have a wedding/elopement or honeymoon couple in the house, we have just as many anniversary celebrations going on. So I thought, OK, I’ll just whip up an nice anniversary package, as well. So I did.  That’ll be on the Weddings page very soon (still working out a few details), so check back if it’s not there by the time you read this.

thumbnail-2aspx1That done, I was surfing around the net for some inspiration of how to present these new features on our blog, when I stumbled across this entry, while googling for “romantic tropical escapes”! This was written in January, but we had no idea it had been published!  While the article reads as if The Tropical Inn is ON the beach (we’re actually on Duval Street  – the nearest and best beach being “Ft. Zach”, about a half-mile away), we’re flattered that the author chose us to spotlight. I’ve copied-and-pasted the article here for your enjoyment:

Romantic Escapes to Florida Beach Areas By Alesandro Fillini

Nothing is more romantic than walking hand in hand down the beach with the one you love. If you agree, romantic beach escapes in Florida should be at the top of your list of things to do.

Florida is a escape paradise. With miles of sandy beaches, perfect climate and many other attractions to bring visitors here, Florida is a favorite destination for both couples and families. While many families may choose to stay close to the inner part of the state, near Orlando and the Walt Disney World Resort, couples have their pick of where to stay in this tropical state. Spots on the beach are especially lovely for couples who want to spend sometime together relaxing, and romantic beach escapes Florida are perfect for honeymoons or any special occasion.

One spot in the state that is especially great for romantic beach escapes Florida is the Florida Keys. This grouping of small islands (there are actually about 1700 of them) is a hotspot for lovers and couples who want to spend some time enjoying the beach during the day and partying during the nightlife. Reachable by US Highway 1 (over several bridges and other roadways) most of the Keys that are inhabited are great places to stay and enjoy the atmosphere. However, for most people, when they think about the Florida Keys, they are really thinking about Key West.

One of the most romantic beach escapes Florida Keys has to offer is in Key West at the Tropical Inn bed and breakfast. This Inn houses 11 different guest rooms, with seven of the rooms being suites. The Garden Cottage Suites (of which there are three) include such amenities as high bamboo cane ceilings, stone tile floors, hot tubs and even lagoon spas. The décor in these rooms is very tropical, done with imported furniture, fabrics and wall hangings to enhance your stay in style. All rooms include private baths, air conditioning, luxury linens and bath amenities. Also included are such high tech touches as high speed Internet and LCD TVs in the suites.

The Tropical Inn is located close to everything in Key West, in fact, they boast that you won’t need to use your car. Breakfast is served each morning, and you can enjoy it with just the two of you on your private patio, or poolside if you prefer. The Inn also is happy to help couples to plan weddings, for the ultimate in romantic escapes. You can choose to get married at the Inn or at many other locations around the Keys, and the concierge service at this bed and breakfast will be happy to help you make plans.

A romantic beach trip to the Florida Keys is sure to be a escape to remember. You could choose this location to elope, or for a honeymoon, or just because – no matter what the reason, Key West makes a great romantic destination.

The Royal Poinciana

Saturday, June 13th, 2009

One of the most photogenic – and so, often-requested — rooms here at The Tropical Inn is the Poinciana Patio.  It is also the one whose name is almost always mispronounced. When we ask a prospective guest about room preference and they start to sound it out, we gently interject the correct pronunciation (poyn-see-anna), with a knowing smile.

The room’s namesake is the Royal Poinciana tree, which happens to be coming into its annual glory here as we ease into summer. A flight into Key West at this time is a most amazing sight. The island seems to be ablaze – explaining why some other common names for Royal Poinciana include Flamboyant Tree, Flame Tree, and Red Flame.  

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A native of Madagascar, it is without question among the most beautiful flowering trees in the world. Long a personal favorite, I first became aware of it as Allen and I explored the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico, many years ago. At the time, I didn’t know what it was called, just that it was the most exotic tree I had ever seen.

The immense canopy, its spread approximating its height, was aflame with blooms reminiscent of cattleya orchids, in orange-red clusters the size of beach balls. The bunches were so thick that the overall effect was of a solid mass, edging out even the arching fronds of lacy, fern-like leaves that are, in their own right, quite engaging.  

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We didn’t see another for many years. Then, lo and behold, when we assumed stewardship (no one ever truly owns historic structures … a subject for a blog entry of its own) The Tropical Inn, there was an enormous Poinciana completely covering the neighboring yard and providing a spectacular backdrop to the patio view from the glass wall of “Room Six” – later to be rechristened the “Poinciana Patio”, in its honor. The following spring, we tried our best to figure out a way to save the grand specimen and install a pool, as well. When it became obvious that a decision had to be made between the two, as is too often the case, the “bottom line” won.

Shortly thereafter, we moved into a compound we now call Coccoloba. There, peeking over the fence from the adjoining yard to check out its new neighbors, was another majestic Poinciana. A more perfect “garden ornament” could not have been planned or hoped for. And this time, the pool and tree are far enough apart to peacefully coexist.

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After a couple of months of intense and voluminous bloom (we’ve noticed that the older the tree gets, the more prolific its output … is there a metaphor here), the flowers will drop and the tree will re-foliate its wide, spreading branches with delicate, mimosa-like compound leaves. The wind-born leaflets will, in the coming months, persist in blanketing the surface of the pool like miniature fairy wings.  But that is a small aggravation, compared to the dense green dappled shade that will be so welcome as summer deepens.

This festive adornment of our little piece of Paradise is tolerant of salt air and occassional drought, not fussy as to soil conditions, has no pests and thrives on very little attention. How often does one encounter such extravagant beauty that asks only for enough space to happily preen for its admirers?

“We don’t have a town drunk … we all take turns!”

Thursday, June 4th, 2009

450px-sunset_with_coconut_palm_tree_fiji2We heard this first while sitting in the sand under a coconut palm … enjoying the balmy breeze off the ocean at sunset … sipping a cold …. (I know, I know … but it really was that idyllic!!!) … while waiting for our favorite Nashville songwriter and friend, Chuck Jones, to perform at the Casa Marina.

Check out this infectious video of Key West’s new official song, by James T. Slater, introduced at this year’s Songwriters Festival, about a month ago!

What, no Key West address?  No problem, mon … we’ll loan you ours!