Archive for May, 2010

Where the Big Dogs Hang

Monday, May 17th, 2010

There’s a new state health inspector in town. And he’s rigidly by the book. Not something we see a lot of here in laid-back Key West, but when we do, the Coconut Telegraph starts to buzz.

Florida’s Department of Business and Professional Regulation bans dogs from public restaurants and bars. However, the law is rarely enforced. On February 15, the new inspector cited and fined Schooner Wharf Bar for “critical and repeat violation for allowing non-service animals on the premises.”

In a separate sue-crazy incident that aggravates the situation, a Massachusetts tourist who tripped over a dog at Turtle Kraals four years ago was awarded $18,000 for injuries and suffering by a jury this April. In a welcome but uncharacteristically equitable turn of events, the owner of the restaurant/bar was only held accountable for half, negligence being placed equally on the patron. But the 50-percent decision was enough for Turtle Kraals owner, the Southernmost Restaurant Group, to ban dogs from all six of its Key West eateries.

Key West is perhaps the most dog-friendly town in America. And The Schooner, particularly, has a long-standing tradition of patrons hanging out with their pooches, enjoying the salty breeze off the Bight while sipping a cool one, listening to music and, in general, just soaking up the pure Key West ambience of the place. So entrenched is this tradition that the watering hole’s slogan is “Hang with the Big Dogs”, and there is even a song called “Schooner Wharf Bar Dog”.

Not to be daunted, Schooner Wharf owners and patrons – in fact, the whole Historic Seaport neighborhood, and extending to the local community at large – have rallied, paw-in-hand. There’s a loophole in Florida’s “doggie dining” regulations that was signed into permanent law in 2006. Known as the Dixie Cup Clary Local Control Act, it allows cities and counties to override the legislation by adopting a local ordinance. With the sponsorship of one of our City commissioners and the support of all the others, right down to the Mayor, a new ordinance that would legalize the long-standing practice of allowing dogs at open-air Key West restaurants may soon mean that Fido and Fifi will be, once again, taking their well-behaved people out for some quality bonding-and-brew time at their favorite hangouts.

The ordinance will be voted on tomorrow night at the Key West City Commission meeting.  Assuming its easy passage, a few simple rules will be required to be followed by the hosting establishments. Among these are a special City permit that requires proof of at least $1 million in liability insurance. Most prudent businesses carry that as a matter of course, so no big deal. Conspicuous signage will have to be posted, advising of the wisdom of regular hand washing (Big Brother, protect us from ourselves …) and sanitizer must be provided.

Dogs will be required to be leashed and won’t be allowed in laps or on chairs. They’ll be “carded” for a current license or rabies tag … and their owners will have to carry the corresponding paperwork, to be produced upon request (eye roll, here …)

Long may the Paper Toting Pooches rule!

De plane! De plane!

Monday, May 10th, 2010

70 miles west of Key West lies a cluster of keys that are the true end of the chain of islands known as the Florida Keys (you thought it was Key West, didn’t you?) Upon discovering them in 1513, Spanish explorer in the New World, Ponce de Leon, dubbed the westernmost islands Las Tortugas, “The Turtles”. “Dry” was an admonition to mariners noted on navigational charts, warning that there was no fresh water to be found there.

Elevated to National Park status in 1992, the history of the Dry Tortugas began in 1825 with the construction of a light house at a strategic spot amidst the rocky shoals, on Garden Key. In 1846, construction began on what was to become the largest brick structure in the western hemisphere, a part of the US chain of coastal defense forts known today as Fort Jefferson. Covering eleven acres of Garden Key’s sixteen, it remains incomplete today. Construction went on for over 30 years, plagued by materials and logistics problems and Yellow Fever epidemics. During the process, the rifled cannon was invented, rendering the fort obsolete because its thick walls could then be penetrated. With this development, construction was abandoned.

During the Civil War, the fort was used as a military prison for captured deserters. It was there that the four men convicted of complicity in President Abraham Lincoln’s assassination were held, including the infamous Dr. Samuel Mudd. The Army ceased operations at “Fort Jeff” in 1874.

In the early years of the twentieth century, the cluster of keys became a wildlife refuge. In 1935, Fort Jefferson was proclaimed a National Monument, encompasing 100 square miles of geography, both above and below sea level.

Today, May 10, Key West Seaplane Charters begins flying to the Dry Tortugas. It has been two years since a former company offered a similar trip. This is a most welcome return of service, as it is arguably the most exciting attraction in Key West. Half and whole-day trips are offered. The inaugural flight is underway as I write this, and we have Tropical Inn guests on board. I can hardly wait for their return, to hear their review!

The flight out takes about 45 minutes. Skimming along just above the water, everyone has a birds eye view of denizens of the deep as they go about their daily life. You’ll spot rays, sharks, sea turtles, and pods of dolphins in the crystal clear waters. There is even a sunken ship resting on the ocean floor that you’ll fly over. Landing and takeoff is exhilarating, and a unique experience for the uninitiated.

Once on land, you’ll have ample time to explore the fort, either on your own or with an interpreter who will fill you in on its history. Then gear up for snorkeling, as you venture below the ocean’s surface for some amazing sights of the underwater world in the surrounding environs.

This trip is primo. You just gotta do it!